Our work in Mexico has, to date, focused on the south-eastern part of the country - specifically Chiapas State. Over a third of the present population of Chiapas State is considered inidgenous, descended mainly from the original Mayan inhabitants of the area. The major ethnolingustic groups there are the Chol, Mam, Lacandon, Tojola'bal, Tzeltal, Tzotzil and Zoque. Palenque, Yaxchilán and Bonampak are the major Mayan historical sites.

Traveling in this part of Mexico we frequently encountered Mexican military checkpoints and roadblocks. While they didn't interfere with our work we were surprised at how pervasive they were. Not since conducting our work in Burma (Myanmar) had we seen such a prominent military presence and such frequent checking of identity. The reason for this is not surprising. On January 1, 1994 the Ejército Zapatista de Liberación Nacional (Zapatista National Liberation Army, also known as the Zapatistas) came to prominence and world attention when they began an armed uprising against the Mexican federal government and took control of many municipal centers in Chiapas.

Today the Zapatistas are, generally, an organization practicing passive resistance. That hasn't changed the situation of the indigenous peoples of the area that led to the uprising in the first place. In Chiapas we observed extreme poverty in indigenous communities. We were also informed of the land-grab policy of the Mexican government in the area as well as human rights violations including the sexual exploitation of local, indigenous women and children by members of the Mexican military.

The visitor to this region is best advised to make their base in San Cristóbal de las Casas. There guides can be found who speak many western languages and who can guide the visitor into neighboring Mayan villages and advise about local customs, which should be strictly observed. The visitor who speaks Spanish can also visit these same Mayan villages using local, public transport. Any visitor intending to visit a Zapatista community (Caracol) is recommended to speak and understand advanced Spanish and to visit only with a trusted guide. Venturing into one of these communities alone is ill-advised for the personal and politial safety of both the visitor and the community.

Volunteer Opportunities

Books

Gibler, J., (2008) Mexico Unconquered: Chronicles of Power and Revolt. San Francisco: City Lights Publishers.

Weinberg, W., (1999) Homage to Chiapas: The New Indigenous Struggles in Mexico. New York: Verso.